We cross the long and modern bridge over the large Esmeraldas River, leaving behind the colorful skyline of the namesake city, capital of the province of Esmeraldas, in the northern coast of Ecuador.  We go past the city’s airport and soon we are riding on a new and modern road, the northern segment of Ecuador’s coastal motorway.  South of the Esmeraldas River’s delta; a long line of huge oil tankers queues to load on petroleum from Ecuador’s large coastal refinery.
The Pacific Ocean to the left and vast plains, exuberantly verdant, to the right, explain to us, without the need of words, why this part of coastal Ecuador is known as “the green province”: a fabulous mix of lush coastal rainforests plus large plantations of bananas, coffee, cocoa and African oil palms create a luxuriant mix of green colors.  Besides, the area was known, in the days of the colony, as a fountain of emerald mines, thus the province, river and city’s name. And to make it even more interesting, Esmeraldas is the main hub of Ecuador’s afro-descending population.
Our destination today is Rio Verde (green river, for a change….), some 30 minutes north of Esmeraldas city.  Andy, Cristina and I marvel at every turn of the road with new and amazing views as Patricio explains to us tons of facts and figures about the area’s agricultural richness. We leave the main road and go past two small towns, picturesque and quaint, where the predominantly afro-descending inhabitants, cheerful and colorfully dressed, wave at us as we go by.  Finally we reach a small settlement called “Vuelta Larga” (long curve); alongside the famed “Rio Verde”.  The river does have a dark green tone, due to the accumulation of plant sediments on its bottom and shores.  The tiny village has a small square with a thatch-roofed central hut and a small, white walled and nicely gardened waterfront.
Now we board a motorized dugout canoe where Carlos the motorist and Carlos the local native guide join us for a journey upriver…. There is a surprise at every bend: long-necked cormorants taking flight with the river’s surface serving them as a runway to take-off; dazzling white egrets and great blue herons roam the shores, lined with red mangroves, the perfect habitat for many crustaceans.  Small striated herons quietly stalk around for prey.  Two peregrine falcons hover above the green forest, dotted with some riverside ranches, growing bananas and cocoa…
We are headed to visit a long-time settler and owner of a pioneer “organic ranch”: Don Ignacio, a tall and dark-skinned, pleasant and hospitable elder, yet full of vitality, dreams and plans. His relatively small estate is a haven for the production of cocoa, coffee, plantain and bananas, as well as ornamental plants and flowers.  The difference is that he uses no chemicals at all; his production is one hundred percent clean and environmentally friendly.  His wooden home looks modest, but he is proud of what he does and tries to motivate the ranchers and settlers of the area, to follow his example. His philosophy is “by preserving nature, we preserve our future”.  One of his assistants points out the amazing production of oranges, literally falling from the trees and hands out incredibly sweet and refreshing oranges, ideal for the morning heat on the humid and warm atmosphere of this hidden corner, alongside the shores of the ”Green  River.  Don Ignacio plans to build a small facility to meet tourists eager to learn about the unique lifestyle on a coastal forest and how to produce abundant crops, without damaging the natural habitat… His property includes a small greenhouse and an equally small but effective plant producing cocoa nectar, the raw material for preparing delicious tasting chocolate, some of which is exported out of the country’s frontiers….  But there are still more discoveries for us to enjoy on this hot and pleasant day… We will tell you about them on the next issue…..

E   N   D     O   F     P   A   R   T     O   N   E

After our exciting two hours hike in the rainforest, covered in sweat and quite thirsty, we get back to the Shayari Community Tourism Center where the children are waiting to see us, urban creatures, return after a walk in the jungle.  They smile and wave at us, displaying that genuine hospitality of the inhabitants of these remote corners of the amazing Amazon basin.  We are offered a much welcome and refreshing orange juice and additional bottles of water to continue our journey.  Geovanny, the Community’s young President, joins me to host the rest of the day’s outing.
We travel through dense primary forests nestled along irregular mountainous ridges and we frequently stop to look at and photograph the brilliant yellow-rump cacique birds and their peculiar long and hanging nests, looking like Christmas decoration over large ficus and kapok trees. Another stop is to watch a small troupe of woolley monkeys performing their acrobatic maneuvers as they travel over the forest’s canopy, alongside the dirt road. A large rodent, most likely a young capybara, scurries across the road and rapidly disappears in the dense vegetation.  There is a pleasant scent of moisture, plant leafs and wood, a characteristic of such a pristine habitat.  From a vantage point along the narrow road we emerge over the Lumbaqui Valley and get a great panoramic view of the namesake village, one of the cross-roads of Ecuador’s rich petroleum-producing zone.
After a short stop for refreshments and a light snack, we continue on, towards another remote community, El Cedro, located on the Upper Agurarico River area.  Our first stop is at Santiago’s extremely modest home, surrounded by gardens, chicken all over the place and the backdrop of the omnipresent jungle behind.  He is a mestizo settler, who migrated from the Andes, decades ago and now lives in convivial harmony with the Kchwa native population of the area. His wife and five children busily prepare lunch for us, the “special guests” of the day.  Santiago’s dream, shared by many of the surrounding community members, is to create a “Sustainable Handicrafts Center”, which, by utilizing naturally decaying materials, would provide a decent source of income to the local inhabitants, otherwise dedicated to agriculture and farming, which often contributes to degrading and destroying the natural forests.  This activity, instead, helps preserve the forest.  He is a skilled artisan himself and shows us his most artistic lamps and decoration figures made of the fibers and materials of fallen trees and decaying tree barks.
While we share a succulent chicken soup, salad and lemonade around the dining table, we can feel the spirit of equity and hospitality which these people embrace… Opening the doors of their modest home is a demonstration of such spirit and we enjoy a memorable moment of true sharing the daily life of a local family.  After lunch, Santiago takes us to visit his elder colleague, Don Ivan, in the small El Cedro’s main square.  His driftwood handicrafts workshop is large and the amount and variety of objects, whether for decoration or for practical uses, is really amazing. Even though, the area is not one of high touristic visitation, they continue with their dream to convert their small community into a superb handicrafts center, characterized by the concept of preserving the rainforest, while recycling its natural materials into fantasy pieces of artisanal work.  To end the visit, we drive a short distance away to reach a huge bend of the large Aguarico River’s headwaters, where I am really stunned at the bizarre and unique geological formations which shape the rivers’ shorelines at this place, known as “Las Pizarras” (which would translate into “the blackboards”)… With no geologists around to ask, I can only speculate that these are stratified lava rivers, spilled from the neighboring Reventador Volcano and further shaped by the force of the river’s water crafting the lava into the most amazing shapes, a startling sight…..!!  As we make our way back to the petroleum hub city of Lago Agrio to catch my return flight to Quito, I tell Geovanny, my Kichwa host, how much I have enjoyed and learned on these days, sharing much of the daily life of these remote communities on Ecuador’s magic upper Amazonian rainforest…..

E   N   D     O   F     P   A   R   T     T   W   O

A more than pleasant, yet “déjà-vu” experience wakes me up to the loud sound of birds saluting a new and sunny morning on the remote community of Shayari, in Ecuador’s Upper Amazon basin. The beautifully chaotic concert put on by birds and myriads of other creatures, makes me realize that my bed is only separated from the “real” rainforest just by the thin walls of the native materials with which the community lodge’s cabins are built of.  Rustic and simple, the cabins have good beds, clean linen, mosquito netting, no electricity and yes, a small private toilet and wash basin.
Showers are communal and reachable just a one minute walk from the cabins.  Today, a pump has broken down, so, with due apologies from the Kichwa indigenous administrators, the “Plan B” shower turns to be a natural cascade, walking some hundred meters down a natural trail.  With the appropriate spirit for this kind of adventures, I find it a unique experience and think that, after all, that is and has been the natural shower for the jungle inhabitants, anyway…
Back into outdoor clothes and hiking shoes I join Guido, one of my local hosts, to the community’s main hut, where Guillermo has prepared a delicious breakfast which included yucca bread, fresh orange juice, almost-gourmet sweet plantain patties with melting cheese inside; chopped fresh papaya and bananas, along with a natural tea of fresh lemon grass herbs from their organic garden. The native children peek into the large thatch-roofed dining room, excited with the presence of visitors and bust into smiles, displaying their natural and candid hospitality.
We have a busy agenda so we immediately head for a two-hour nature trail excursion, with Guillermo as our native guide.  The rainforest is madly alive with its millions of creatures of all sorts, colors and sizes, with plants and insects leading the counts in numbers of species, yet closely followed by the bird’s population. In addition to learning the most amazing secrets of the jungle and the inter-relations of its inhabitants, we discover here the unique characteristics of a different ecosystem, being this a part of the Amazonian rainforest which stands higher above the vast plains, set between them and the lower eastern slopes of the Andean mountains.  The community has implemented a “Rescue Center” for several types of forest animals, mainly mammals, which are endangered or were found sick, captive or in precarious conditions.  Guillermo proudly shows us and explains the functioning of the center, which is dispersed along the nature trail and consists of large, fenced (yet natural) enclosures to look after these animals, until they are found suitable to be released back to their fully natural life.
First to be seen are about a dozen collared-pecaris, a type of wild hog, which roams the forests. We can see the large chunk of upper lip that one of them seems to have lost on an encounter with some larger predator. Next are two female tapirs, mother and daughter, who rush to the voice of Guillermo who is bringing their daily breakfast of green plantains. The proximity of these rare and normally elusive animals is exciting, in spite of the fact that they live on a controlled captivity for recovery purposes.  Further along the trail we stop by a large pen hosting a half a dozen of brightly colored green and red macaws who put on their noisy show.  Then the trail gets steeper as we climb and descend the flanks of a small mountainous ridge, passing by small cascades, creeks and ravines.  On one of the ravines, a thin river of crystal clear waters, something catches the attention of Guillermo… He asks us to hush as we slowly approach the small waterway. The reason: a large, thick and unusually colorful (a mix of yellow and black striped) boa constrictor snake is slowly making its way upstream, most likely in search of food… I manage to take some good photo shots, until the reptile suddenly gets annoyed with our proximity and swings back with a threatening move to shows us its head sticking up on a clearly menacing signal…. Guillermo and I rush away as Guido, who is watching the show from a safer position, cracks into laughter at our unexpected scare, while the boa gets back to its whereabouts…. More to be told about this adventure on the next issue….

T   H   E     E   N   D     O   F      P   A   R   T     O   N   E

We leave, reluctantly, the magnificent sights of the La Segua Wetlands and head back towards Bahia de Caraquez, crossing again its impressive bridge. We just bypass the city to engage on a new adventure, this time it is a twenty-minute ride along the beach, expertly conducted by Patricio, who knows the route like the palm of his hand… The long and wide sandy beaches stretch out for miles and you can only ride over them at low tide.
While the Pacific Ocean gently pounds onto the beach, leaving a long line of white foam, many shore birds, mainly sandpipers and sanderlings, plovers and phalaropes, ply along the beach, looking mainly for small crustaceans.  Against the blue sky, orderly formations of brown pelicans come and go, while frigate birds show-off their master abilities on aerial maneuvering. Now we reach Chirije, an ancient archaeological site, belonging to the Manteño Culture.  Around the site, of great historic and archaeological value, The Chirije Eco Lodge Compound provides the perfect venue for relaxation in close contact with nature and the spectacular sights of the Pacific Ocean, just a few feet away.  Orlando, the young native administrator of the Lodge welcomes us and shows us around.  We are fascinated by his stories about the place having a reputation as a preferred venue for UFO visits…… Patricio, owner of the property, shows us the small yet fascinating site museum, arranged at the actual excavation, a place which has been visited by world renowned investigators and archaeologists.  Next is a short hike, uphill, over a nature trail, to observe several types of land birds, such as tanagers, parakeets and vermillion flycatchers.  Hovering high above we spot at least two peregrine falcons and some roadside hawks, abundant in the area.
After a hearty “Viche” soup, a fish broth with green plantain, yucca and corn chunks, shrimps and a touch of peanut, onions and tomatoes; a typical specialty of the area (and delicious indeed), we are now headed to another bird watching paradise.  Half an hour south east of Bahia, in the center of the Chone River Estuary, is Isla Corazon (Heart Island, due to the actual shape of the island as seen from above).  Now we take a fascinating canoe ride. Carlos, our native guide and boatman gently paddles along the mangrove lined canals and narrow waterways, while he tells us all about the superb ecosystem and the fascinating bird life and other animal species which live in the area. The large aerial roots of the red-mangroves form an intricate maze and we frequently must “duck” to avoid branches and logs.
It doesn’t take too long to start viewing numerous species of herons, particularly the striated and great blue heron, as well as some night herons.  White egrets also abound, as we reach the heart of a massive colony of magnificent frigate birds, one of the densest concentration of these birds along the coasts of South America and the Eastern Pacific.  At this time of the year, hundreds, if not thousands of young frigates fill the mangrove trees and fill the air with their noisy squeaks, while the adults busily patrol the area or go on food-hunting outings, which includes their well known thieve abilities, stealing food from other birds in acrobatic midair maneuvers… The scene, along with its sounds, is one perfect for the legendary film of the sixties “The Birds”, simply amazing, stunning and awesome….
As we are just about exiting from inside a small canal, to the western shore of the island, we nearly touch a mid-sized and fairly thick boa constrictor, wrapped around a mangrove branch and totally asleep, according to Carlos, most likely after having had a large meal…..  Now we are fully outside again and circumnavigating the western shores of the island on our small dugout canoe, yet to marvel at new surprises: large flocks of white ibis birds busily flying back and forth, while at the northern edge of the island we encounter a large colony of cormorants, mostly perched along the mangroves’ branches, looking like a giant Christmas tree…. With a flaming sunset and the skyline of Bahia City in the distance, we conclude a full day of exciting discovery, exploring and learning, first hand, the secrets of this superb birding paradise, on the north central coast of Ecuador, a memorable experience and a place not to be missed……

There is nothing like waking up to the songs of birds by your window. The feeling becomes more astounding, if this is happening in the center of a middle-sized city, like the historic Bahia de Caraquez, on Ecuador’s north-central coast.  The small yet charming seaside boutique hotel is surrounded by gardens and the plants and trees are home to numerous species of birds, which are in charge of providing a natural wake-up call to the house’s guests.  After a quick and refreshing shower, I join Marcelo and Patricio, our local host and hotel co-owner, for a delicious breakfast at the private terrace, overlooking the gardens with their bird population, the swimming pool and, just a few feet away, the Pacific Ocean.
Soon we set up on a morning outing which shows us the splendid skyline of Bahìa City, recognized as the actual cradle of the Ecuadorian nation.  The city is located at the western shore of the huge Chone River’s estuary, just where it pours into the Pacific Ocean. The brand-new bridge (Ecuador’s longest and newest masterpiece of engineering), crosses the large delta of the River and unites Bahia with the small and picturesque beach resort village of San Vicente, on the eastern shore of the estuary.
With Patricio as host, guide and driver, Marcelo and I are now headed towards the upper delta of the Chone River, recognized as a newly discovered birding paradise.  After some 30 minutes along a secondary but reasonably good road, we reach the La Segua Wetlands Reserve. A roadside sign leads us to a small parking area past a wooden gate.  Here we meet Maria, the local guide and a passionate caretaker of this magic piece of land.  She shows us the small and very basic office installations and tells us about the dreams of building here a good Interpretation Center.  Soon we start our approximately one mile long walk, following a nature path, which overlooks at the vast plains which are a mixture of farmlands and cattle growing estates.  All the land we see is already part of the gigantic estuary formed by the flooding of the mighty Chone River and has developed into a large complex of wetlands, teeming with life, particularly birds.
Just as we start the hike, a scarlet-backed woodpecker bird shocks us with its bright presence on a tree bark, a few feet away from the path.  Next in sight are two fast-flying tanagers, which I try to identify and, with the help of binoculars, I decide that they are, most likely, blue-gray tanagers. Maria provides us with a host of knowledge about the ecosystem, its plant and animal inhabitants, particularly winged, while we stop every five feet to marvel at new sights of birds, including mockingbirds, tropical kingbirds, swallows, several types of tyrant birds, whilst in the marshes around, hundreds of wader birds stand or look for food on this splendid and sunny morning. Plovers, sandpipers, yellowlegs, stilts, phalaropes, whimbrels and hundreds of spectacular Jacanas with their rusty-red and brownish plumage and light-yellow wings constantly displayed are just samplers of the extraordinary variety of avian life which occurs here.  According to Maria, more than 150 species of birds have been recorded.
The next to capture my attention and fascination are dozens of the amazingly colorful (and otherwise rare and elusive, yet here unafraid), purple gallinules with their azure blue-purple and contrasting dark green colors surprisingly blending in with the water vegetation.  Kingfisher birds, several types of egrets and ibis birds, striated and great blue herons and even the stunning Cocoi herons show up in large numbers as we reach a small Observation wooden tower from where the marvelous immensity of the wetlands is almost fully visible.  Among the raptors, we have seen several types of kites, hawks and falcons. However the most abundant are the snail kites, which we can observe everywhere, along with the evidence of their feeding habits: hundreds of snail shells dispersed all over the trail and surrounding areas.
The experience is unique and truly fantastic.  As Marcelo incessantly clicks his camera away and I keep my binoculars practically attached to my eyes, Maria and Patricio discuss with us the needs to conserve this bird watching paradise, which I euphorically tag as “an ornithological orgy”…. Such is the magnitude of what we have seen in little more than one hour.  And the story hasn’t come to an end yet.  But, we will tell you about the rest of the day on the next issue, not to be missed………

T  H  E    E  N  D    O  F    P  A  R  T    O  N  E

A brilliantly sunny morning is the perfect setting for our overland trip from the Limoncocha Biological Reserve to the borders of the Cuyabeno Fauna Reserve.  With my Secoya host and guide, Wilmer, skillfully driving the 4-wheel drive vehicle, we ride with a south to north sustained course, on a secondary road, through patches of thick rainforest, with its dense vegetation and tall trees.  Soon we find ourselves traversing one of the hubs of Ecuador’s petroleum fields; a sharp contrast between pristine nature and one of modern-day’s premiere commodities: petroleum. The issue inevitably triggers conversation about the advantages and disadvantages of this richness, versus the conservation of nature for the long-term future.
We reach the small and typical Amazonian frontier town of Tarapoa.  It is possibly near 90 degrees Farenheit and the air is very humid.  However, it is not unpleasant at all. We stop for a light lunch at a small restaurant in town, where we eat the only available platter on the menu: a traditional chicken stew with rice and salad.  We restart our journey and now we turn east. From a ridge along the road we can see the vastness of the Cuyabeno Reserve, one of Ecuador’s protected natural areas. As we travel, Wilmer tells me fascinating stories about the origins, culture and way of life of his ethnic nationality: the Secoya people. Actually, Secoya translates into “people of multiple colors”… a poetic name, which also refers to their typical outfits and ceremonial body and face-painting.
The small dirt road reaches a dead end at the shores of the large Aguarico River.  We park our vehicle under the shade of some trees and now we need to cross to the opposite shore. In spite of Wilmer’s loud whistling, there is no response, only a few children play in the water, with total disregard of our presence.  Resourceful by nature, Wilmer spots a tiny dugout canoe, parked along the north shore’s muddy bank.  He rushes to a nearby hut, to ask for an ore and we “borrow” the small dugout for a little more than one hour.  The crossing of the strong Aguarico River, paddling on such a minuscule canoe, that barely holds Wilmer and my weight, is already a fun adventure. We reach the south bank, tie securely the canoe for our return and make our way inland to visit the small Secoya community of San Pablo de los Secoyas. Rodrigo, a young community leader and Nancy, a local guide, greet us and we follow them to the village’s Interpretation Center, a solid building with a complete display telling the story, details and way of life of the Secoya nationality.  Wilmer takes over and provides me with a magisterial class about the extraordinary culture of his nation, of which he is greatly proud. They also show me their fresh-water fish cultivation project, an interesting initiative to boost their economy and provide an added attraction for tourism.
Back across the Aguarico River on the tiny dugout canoe, we take again our car for an additional twenty minute ride, until we reach the small but busy river port of “Centro Union”. We park the vehicle securely here and we board a large motorized dugout canoe, which will take us on a thirty minute long ride, downstream, on the Agurarico River, towards a new Secoya community: Seocya-Remolino.  This is Wilmer’s home and we disembark at his father’s home, up on a scenic ridge along the southern shore of the river…. Don Cesar, the patriarch, is a charming and smiling man, on his late fifties, who speaks good Spanish and is a superb host.  As is typical of this ethnic group, women take a bit of a backstage.  After sipping a refreshing tangerine juice, Wilmer, his father and family take me to their well organized “Etno-Botanic” Garden, where they orderly plant medicinal plants from the rainforest. The sunset hour approaches and, sitting on a large log, I watch how bright oropendolas, yellow-rumped cacique birds and “arasari” tucanets head for their home on a huge kapok tree, right by the Piaguaje family’s house.  During hours, a golden-colored duck is being braised and smoked for dinner at one edge of the large, traditional and perfectly knit, thatch-roofed hut. The Aguarico River and the dense jungle provide a truly awesome backdrop to an even more fascinating chat with Don Cesar, Wilmer and Bartolo, the commune’s president who has joined us;  all telling fantastic stories about their ancestral culture. At dinner time, the patriarch father now wears the traditional Secoya dress, a sky-blue, knee-length robe with yellow edges around the neck and arms.  Under the dim light of a small lamp and a few candles, conversation flows as we devour the delicious meal and all I feel in my mind and throughout my body and spirit is a pleasant sensation of pure peace and magic……….

T  H  E    E  N  D    O  F    P  A  R  T    T  W  O

An intense equatorial light filters through the wood and bamboo-lined windows of the small jungle lodge along the shores of Lake Limoncocha, meaning “Lake of Lemons”; on Ecuador’s north-central Amazon region. I pleasantly wake up to a concert of bird songs and sounds, which fill the air at sunrise….  The lodge was built and is entirely ran by the local Kichwa community, within an initiative to enhance a new tourism modality, where the local communities fully run their own tourism enterprises, while upgrading the cultural experiences of the travelers as an ideal complement to the already stunning and richly varied natural environments of the magnificent rainforest.
The cabins are small but clean and mosquito nettings are provided, just in case. Shower and bathroom facilities are communal.  As I make my way to the shower, I meet a Spanish family from Madrid, father, mother and two children, with whom I had shared a pleasant conversation over diner, the previous evening. They are feeling as cheerful as I am, as we all march towards the showers’ area.  Looking at the large and imposing Lake, one of Ecuador’s Natural Protected Areas, the Biological Reserve of Limoncocha, under the early morning light, is a rewarding experience by itself.  Meanwhile, the forest, with its myriad trees, luxuriant vegetation and millions of winged or non-winged creatures teems with life and color. A real good start for a day filled with unique natural and cultural experiences.
Next is breakfast, graciously served by the Kichwa women, who have prepared for us freshly squeezed grapefruit juice; delicious green plantain patties, lemongrass tea from the lodge’s own garden and a bowl of chopped fruits, including papaya and bananas, all from the area. As I praise the ladies for their good cooking, they tell me, with their natural innocence and a charming touch of shyness, that they feel a bit “gastronomically weak” in terms of preparing deserts and they ask if some specialized training could be found for them.  I promise to help them on this endeavor.
The luminosity increases as the morning progresses, on another sunny day in the mighty Amazon Rainforest, right at the Equator.  The intense blue sky makes a great contrast with the dozens of green color tones of the jungle’s vegetation.  We set off on a hike along a nature trail, to observe dozens of species of birds; hundreds of leaf-cutter ants, busily carrying small leaves on endless and perfectly organized lines.   Two graceful “wooley” monkeys show up and perform a live show of their funny antics, apparently just to amuse themselves and, who knows if willingly or not, amuse us too…. Guillermo is our native Kichwa guide and he explains with passion the intricate yet fascinating networking of the rainforest inhabitants and their surrounding elements: air, sun, rain, earth, soil, wind, fire….. He also tells us about the millenary history of his ancestors and the rich cultural elements which they boast…
The loop trail brings us back to the lodge where I part from the Spanish family, as they are headed in a different direction than I.  Taking one last look at the sparkling blue Limoncocha  Lagoon and checking out for some colorful tanagers, busily flying among the dense vegetation, I say goodbye to the staff and I meet my new guide and host, Wilmer, a member of the Secoya nationality, one of Ecuador’s seventeen unique and fascinating ethnic groups, who will take me on a private visit to the Secoyas’s territory, along the shores of the Aguarico River, bordering the Cuayabeno Fauna Reserve, one more fantastic experience yet to be lived…. But, I will tell you about the continuation of this voyage, on the next issue….. Not to be missed…….

                                                                  T  H  E    E  N  D    O  F    P  A  R  T    O  N E

With a still sunny early afternoon, we continue our journey, this time descending progressively closer to the uppermost part of Ecuador’s Amazon rainforest.  As we descend from the Andes towards the jungle, the cloud forest unfolds before our eyes and we are amazed by the rapid change in the scenery.  The vegetation is now dense and luxuriant, with large trees, vines, mosses and plenty of epiphyte plants, including bromeliads and amazing orchids of the most stunning color combinations and shapes.  Such magnificence of nature calls for frequent stops to take pictures and also to look for dozens of colorful species of birds who thrive in such abundant vegetation.  Freddy continues to provide us with always fascinating information about the area’s fauna, flora, geology and history.  We are following the road which links Quito, the capital city, with Lago Agrio, the nation’s main hub of the petroleum industry, in the heart of the Amazon rainforest…
Within an hour and a half from the Papallacta area and having gone past the picturesque town of Baeza, we reach El Chaco, which is the gateway to Ecuador’s highest cascade (yet not very well known): the San Rafael Waterfalls.  We leave the road to undertake a twenty minutes hike to the Mirador or Observatory which allows us for spectacular sights of the cascade, tumbling 160 meters (480 feet) down a startling gorge in two jumps.  The view is truly fantastic and the roaring sound of the Quijos River’s waters complements the visual experience with its share of nature sounds which make the adventure even more thrilling…. At the base of the cascade, a rainbow creates a surrealistic view, all within the impressive backdrop of the dense forest which covers the eastern flanks of the Andes, leading to the mythical Amazonian rainforest.  We stroll around the area, fascinated by the sights and sounds, feeling privileged to be able to observe this unique corner of Ecuador’s ever-changing and richly diverse landscapes and ecosystems. The whole area is part of the large Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve and hosts a variety of habitats, from the high Andean moorlands to the tropical rainforest.
Reluctant to leave the stunning view of the San Rafael Waterfall we have to move on and, a short distance away, we park our vehicle again, to engage on yet one more, relatively short, hike along a nature trail, to observe a new wonder of this extraordinary reserve: the perfect angle to watch, fortunately on a clear day with just a few scattered clouds high above, the impressive Reventador Volcano, a young and active volcano with its steep slopes and stunning surroundings which combine dense forests with barren lava fields created by the on-and-off eruptive processes which, since 2003, the young colossus (3160 meters or close to 12.000 feet of elevation above sea level), perched on what is already considered Amazon Basin territory, has been showing its power.  Tucked on a richly pristine and dramatically remote corner, between the Eastern Andean Range and the Amazon Rainforest, the view of El Reventador fills our eyes and minds with images and thoughts of how magnificent nature is on this blessed land, where even the eventually threatening giants, such as active volcanoes, can provide everlasting scenes of sheer and rare beauty…..
As our outing was devised as a one day journey, we start making our way back to Quito, the two and a half hours return drive catching us climbing back past a forest of the endemic polilepis trees, one of the few remnants of ancient primary Andean forests, converted into a magical kaleidoscope of colors as the last rays of sunshine disappear behind the mighty Pichincha Volcano and we start seeing in the distance the twinkling lights of Ecuador’s historic capital city, Quito, its unique skyline framed by the gigantic Pichincha Volcano, bathed by a startling mix of orange, red and rose colors left behind by one more amazing sunset on the unique realms of Ecuador, the land of the Middle of the World……

We have left behind the highly scenic valleys found a very short distance east of Quito, the capital of Ecuador, and now we are surmounting one of the high Andean passes which form part of the Eastern Range of the Andes, converted, in Ecuadorian territory, into a true “Avenue of Volcanoes”, as was described by German geographer and naturalist, Alexander von Humboldt, two centuries ago.
The geological formations are awesome and provide evidence of the ancient origin of these basaltic rocks, resulting from huge convulsions of the earth, occurred eons ago.  The vegetation is sparse, and includes pampas grasslands and occasional samples of two of Ecuador’s most iconic and beautiful high Andes plants and flowers: the “frailejon” and the “chuquirahua”.  We have just crossed by the Papallacta Lake and near the very touristic thermal springs’ resort bearing the same name of Papallacta.  We are headed to explore the edges of one the country’s most important Natural Reserves: the Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve, which encompasses varied ecosystems, from the high Andean “paramos” to the jungles of the westernmost part of Ecuador’s Amazon rainforest.
We leave our vehicle parked in the Papallacta area to begin a hike along the natural trails of the area. Freddy is our local guide and he makes our trek more interesting with his abundant information about the history, geography, ecology, climate, fauna, flora and many other features of the area. North of Papallacta is a vast stretch of moorlands leading to the southern flanks of the mighty Cayambe Volcano, towering to 19.000 feet of elevation and eternally covered with a sparkling mantle of white snow and perpetual glaciers.  This is the land of wild horses, wild cattle roaming free, some species of deer and small mammals which often scurry along the grass as we come by. We can spot three falcons hovering above as we slowly enjoy the trek on a sunny but wind-swept morning up on these hills, over 12.000 feet of altitude above sea level. We take the shorter loop trail, to return back onto a southern direction, heading, this time on horseback, to the northern flanks of another Andean colossus: the Antizana Volcano, also rising over 19.000 feet in elevation and covered by its spectacular share of snow and glaciers…. The mountain is one of Ecuador’s largest volcanic edifices and boasts one of the largest volcanic calderas, now weathered, yet truly impressive.
The Antizana’s glaciers and snows are the prime source of much of the water supplies which feed the large and cosmopolitan capital of Ecuador, Quito. The area is also known as one of the last refuges for the Andean Condor, a mythical bird, the largest of its kind in the planet, and a main symbol of Ecuador, as the bird presides over the nation’s Coat of Arms. After a brief encounter with a few elusive deer, we finally spot flying high, near the north-western flanks of Antizana,  two majestic condors, the largest land birds on earth, mainly carrion eaters, who fly in circles and seem to be patrolling what, according to Freddy, must be a nearby nest.  We admire these amazing winged creatures, unfortunately considered now as an endangered species, holding on to life in their remote realms, away from human predators. As we get closer to the rocky hills which they seem to be guarding, we can capture some good shots of the awesome birds, their enormous black and white wings gently riding the high mountain air currents.
Still fascinated and excited by the sight of the Condors, we reach a small lake, where we stop for some more bird watching, this time looking at some small birds which roam around water bodies.  We find the perfect place to have our picnic lunch of sandwiches, fruit, chocolate bars and bottled fruit juices.  The solitude of the place and its stark beauty are simply inspiring…. But we still plan to look at more of this reserve within the same day, so right after the light lunch, we continue on… But we will tell you the rest of the story on the next issue…..

After the great lunch, we take on the streets of Cuenca again, this time for a pleasant stroll along the banks of the legendary Tomebamba River, which crosses the city and, somehow, divides the old and colonial Cuenca from the new and modern city.  The shores of the river have been for centuries, and continue to be, a public laundry place, where the native women, in their colorful dresses, come to wash their clothes and household garments on the river, and later display a colorful tapestry of drying cloths over the green lawns which frame the river’s banks.  A landmark of the area is the “Broken Bridge”, an old (possibly three centuries old) stone bridge over the Tomebamaba, which maintains its original characteristics, having received, of course, the necessary maintenance to ensure safe passage for pedestrians, bikes and some light weight vehicles.

We leave the picturesque riverside lawns with their flowers and “weeping willow” trees and get back onto our van to cross part of the modern section of the city, which boasts some really beautiful homes, where the local architects have done a great job in keeping up with a “colonial” style, transplanted into ample and modernly built plush houses. Now we are ascending over a winding road up to the city’s main observatory or lookout post: the Hill of Turi.  An old church and small plaza stand close to the edge of the hill, from where a stunning view of the city unfolds: the colonial center with its myriad domes and church towers; the Tomebamba river, winding across the city; three more rivers which pass by certain sections or near the city’s borderline; the modern city with its new buildings, shopping malls and financial centers and even the airport at the far northern end of the valley where the city stands, surrounded by impressive hills and mountains…. To the west, Marcelo points out the heights of El Cajas, a National Park and Natural Reserve, which boasts over two hundred lakes and provides most of Cuenca’s water supply.

Half way down on our descent from the Turi Hill, we make a stop at one of Cuenca’s most noted contemporary artists’ gallery and personal atelier.  We are personally greeted by Eduardo Vega, with his classic beard and good humor, ready to show us the place where he paints, carves and designs some of the most beautiful and original ceramic objects, from ornamental and decoration pieces of all shapes and sizes, to huge lamp-bases and household utensils.  He has a special passion for a combination of greens and blues, along with yellow flowers.  He also charms his guests with stories of ancient Cuenca, considered Ecuador’s city of art and culture….
Back to the heart of the downtown area, our next stop is a workshop where local artisans craft to perfection one of the country’s symbols (and of which Cuenca and its surroundings is one of Ecuador’s main epicenters): the world famous “Panama hats”, an all-time Ecuadorian fine handicraft, that earned that name when the President of Panama presented one of such hats, as a special present, to President Roosevelt of the United States during the Panama Canal’s inauguration ceremony, over a century ago. Here, we watch the artisans skillfully craft the hats which turn into a fashion garment that may well cost well over a thousand dollars, even though, there are economic prices too. To watch the making and shop for these hats is a “must” on any visit to Cuenca……

Back at our lovely boutique Hotel, we have time for a delightful “tea time” chat, sipping Ecuador’s aromatic coffee, accompanied by delicious local pastries. Later in the evening we go out again, this time to discover a different view of Cuenca, now devoid of traffic and converted into a magnificent stage where the hundreds of domes and towers take on the full array of the rainbow colors, ornamentally illuminated by powerful floodlights from below, from above and from different angles and color combinations. The visual impact is stunning, never to be forgotten… Descending past the ancient and splendidly illuminated Church of All Saints, at the end of “Calle Larga” (the “long street”) we reach a lively bar where we enjoy savory snacks, unique typical cocktails and live local music… Cuenca is also the city of poets and at the end of this great day, we conclude that, indeed, the charm of Cuenca is actually like a poem……