A unique cultural experience on Ecuador´s Amazon Region, Part Two
December 10, 2011
A brilliantly sunny morning is the perfect setting for our overland trip from the Limoncocha Biological Reserve to the borders of the Cuyabeno Fauna Reserve. With my Secoya host and guide, Wilmer, skillfully driving the 4-wheel drive vehicle, we ride with a south to north sustained course, on a secondary road, through patches of thick rainforest, with its dense vegetation and tall trees. Soon we find ourselves traversing one of the hubs of Ecuador’s petroleum fields; a sharp contrast between pristine nature and one of modern-day’s premiere commodities: petroleum. The issue inevitably triggers conversation about the advantages and disadvantages of this richness, versus the conservation of nature for the long-term future.
We reach the small and typical Amazonian frontier town of Tarapoa. It is possibly near 90 degrees Farenheit and the air is very humid. However, it is not unpleasant at all. We stop for a light lunch at a small restaurant in town, where we eat the only available platter on the menu: a traditional chicken stew with rice and salad. We restart our journey and now we turn east. From a ridge along the road we can see the vastness of the Cuyabeno Reserve, one of Ecuador’s protected natural areas. As we travel, Wilmer tells me fascinating stories about the origins, culture and way of life of his ethnic nationality: the Secoya people. Actually, Secoya translates into “people of multiple colors”… a poetic name, which also refers to their typical outfits and ceremonial body and face-painting.
The small dirt road reaches a dead end at the shores of the large Aguarico River. We park our vehicle under the shade of some trees and now we need to cross to the opposite shore. In spite of Wilmer’s loud whistling, there is no response, only a few children play in the water, with total disregard of our presence. Resourceful by nature, Wilmer spots a tiny dugout canoe, parked along the north shore’s muddy bank. He rushes to a nearby hut, to ask for an ore and we “borrow” the small dugout for a little more than one hour. The crossing of the strong Aguarico River, paddling on such a minuscule canoe, that barely holds Wilmer and my weight, is already a fun adventure. We reach the south bank, tie securely the canoe for our return and make our way inland to visit the small Secoya community of San Pablo de los Secoyas. Rodrigo, a young community leader and Nancy, a local guide, greet us and we follow them to the village’s Interpretation Center, a solid building with a complete display telling the story, details and way of life of the Secoya nationality. Wilmer takes over and provides me with a magisterial class about the extraordinary culture of his nation, of which he is greatly proud. They also show me their fresh-water fish cultivation project, an interesting initiative to boost their economy and provide an added attraction for tourism.
Back across the Aguarico River on the tiny dugout canoe, we take again our car for an additional twenty minute ride, until we reach the small but busy river port of “Centro Union”. We park the vehicle securely here and we board a large motorized dugout canoe, which will take us on a thirty minute long ride, downstream, on the Agurarico River, towards a new Secoya community: Seocya-Remolino. This is Wilmer’s home and we disembark at his father’s home, up on a scenic ridge along the southern shore of the river…. Don Cesar, the patriarch, is a charming and smiling man, on his late fifties, who speaks good Spanish and is a superb host. As is typical of this ethnic group, women take a bit of a backstage. After sipping a refreshing tangerine juice, Wilmer, his father and family take me to their well organized “Etno-Botanic” Garden, where they orderly plant medicinal plants from the rainforest. The sunset hour approaches and, sitting on a large log, I watch how bright oropendolas, yellow-rumped cacique birds and “arasari” tucanets head for their home on a huge kapok tree, right by the Piaguaje family’s house. During hours, a golden-colored duck is being braised and smoked for dinner at one edge of the large, traditional and perfectly knit, thatch-roofed hut. The Aguarico River and the dense jungle provide a truly awesome backdrop to an even more fascinating chat with Don Cesar, Wilmer and Bartolo, the commune’s president who has joined us; all telling fantastic stories about their ancestral culture. At dinner time, the patriarch father now wears the traditional Secoya dress, a sky-blue, knee-length robe with yellow edges around the neck and arms. Under the dim light of a small lamp and a few candles, conversation flows as we devour the delicious meal and all I feel in my mind and throughout my body and spirit is a pleasant sensation of pure peace and magic……….
T H E E N D O F P A R T T W O
