New Bird watching paradise in Ecuador´s North central coast, Part Two

December 23, 2011

We leave, reluctantly, the magnificent sights of the La Segua Wetlands and head back towards Bahia de Caraquez, crossing again its impressive bridge. We just bypass the city to engage on a new adventure, this time it is a twenty-minute ride along the beach, expertly conducted by Patricio, who knows the route like the palm of his hand… The long and wide sandy beaches stretch out for miles and you can only ride over them at low tide.
While the Pacific Ocean gently pounds onto the beach, leaving a long line of white foam, many shore birds, mainly sandpipers and sanderlings, plovers and phalaropes, ply along the beach, looking mainly for small crustaceans.  Against the blue sky, orderly formations of brown pelicans come and go, while frigate birds show-off their master abilities on aerial maneuvering. Now we reach Chirije, an ancient archaeological site, belonging to the Manteño Culture.  Around the site, of great historic and archaeological value, The Chirije Eco Lodge Compound provides the perfect venue for relaxation in close contact with nature and the spectacular sights of the Pacific Ocean, just a few feet away.  Orlando, the young native administrator of the Lodge welcomes us and shows us around.  We are fascinated by his stories about the place having a reputation as a preferred venue for UFO visits…… Patricio, owner of the property, shows us the small yet fascinating site museum, arranged at the actual excavation, a place which has been visited by world renowned investigators and archaeologists.  Next is a short hike, uphill, over a nature trail, to observe several types of land birds, such as tanagers, parakeets and vermillion flycatchers.  Hovering high above we spot at least two peregrine falcons and some roadside hawks, abundant in the area.
After a hearty “Viche” soup, a fish broth with green plantain, yucca and corn chunks, shrimps and a touch of peanut, onions and tomatoes; a typical specialty of the area (and delicious indeed), we are now headed to another bird watching paradise.  Half an hour south east of Bahia, in the center of the Chone River Estuary, is Isla Corazon (Heart Island, due to the actual shape of the island as seen from above).  Now we take a fascinating canoe ride. Carlos, our native guide and boatman gently paddles along the mangrove lined canals and narrow waterways, while he tells us all about the superb ecosystem and the fascinating bird life and other animal species which live in the area. The large aerial roots of the red-mangroves form an intricate maze and we frequently must “duck” to avoid branches and logs.
It doesn’t take too long to start viewing numerous species of herons, particularly the striated and great blue heron, as well as some night herons.  White egrets also abound, as we reach the heart of a massive colony of magnificent frigate birds, one of the densest concentration of these birds along the coasts of South America and the Eastern Pacific.  At this time of the year, hundreds, if not thousands of young frigates fill the mangrove trees and fill the air with their noisy squeaks, while the adults busily patrol the area or go on food-hunting outings, which includes their well known thieve abilities, stealing food from other birds in acrobatic midair maneuvers… The scene, along with its sounds, is one perfect for the legendary film of the sixties “The Birds”, simply amazing, stunning and awesome….
As we are just about exiting from inside a small canal, to the western shore of the island, we nearly touch a mid-sized and fairly thick boa constrictor, wrapped around a mangrove branch and totally asleep, according to Carlos, most likely after having had a large meal…..  Now we are fully outside again and circumnavigating the western shores of the island on our small dugout canoe, yet to marvel at new surprises: large flocks of white ibis birds busily flying back and forth, while at the northern edge of the island we encounter a large colony of cormorants, mostly perched along the mangroves’ branches, looking like a giant Christmas tree…. With a flaming sunset and the skyline of Bahia City in the distance, we conclude a full day of exciting discovery, exploring and learning, first hand, the secrets of this superb birding paradise, on the north central coast of Ecuador, a memorable experience and a place not to be missed……

New Bird Watching paradise in Ecuador´s North central coast, Part one

December 17, 2011

There is nothing like waking up to the songs of birds by your window. The feeling becomes more astounding, if this is happening in the center of a middle-sized city, like the historic Bahia de Caraquez, on Ecuador’s north-central coast.  The small yet charming seaside boutique hotel is surrounded by gardens and the plants and trees are home to numerous species of birds, which are in charge of providing a natural wake-up call to the house’s guests.  After a quick and refreshing shower, I join Marcelo and Patricio, our local host and hotel co-owner, for a delicious breakfast at the private terrace, overlooking the gardens with their bird population, the swimming pool and, just a few feet away, the Pacific Ocean.
Soon we set up on a morning outing which shows us the splendid skyline of Bahìa City, recognized as the actual cradle of the Ecuadorian nation.  The city is located at the western shore of the huge Chone River’s estuary, just where it pours into the Pacific Ocean. The brand-new bridge (Ecuador’s longest and newest masterpiece of engineering), crosses the large delta of the River and unites Bahia with the small and picturesque beach resort village of San Vicente, on the eastern shore of the estuary.
With Patricio as host, guide and driver, Marcelo and I are now headed towards the upper delta of the Chone River, recognized as a newly discovered birding paradise.  After some 30 minutes along a secondary but reasonably good road, we reach the La Segua Wetlands Reserve. A roadside sign leads us to a small parking area past a wooden gate.  Here we meet Maria, the local guide and a passionate caretaker of this magic piece of land.  She shows us the small and very basic office installations and tells us about the dreams of building here a good Interpretation Center.  Soon we start our approximately one mile long walk, following a nature path, which overlooks at the vast plains which are a mixture of farmlands and cattle growing estates.  All the land we see is already part of the gigantic estuary formed by the flooding of the mighty Chone River and has developed into a large complex of wetlands, teeming with life, particularly birds.
Just as we start the hike, a scarlet-backed woodpecker bird shocks us with its bright presence on a tree bark, a few feet away from the path.  Next in sight are two fast-flying tanagers, which I try to identify and, with the help of binoculars, I decide that they are, most likely, blue-gray tanagers. Maria provides us with a host of knowledge about the ecosystem, its plant and animal inhabitants, particularly winged, while we stop every five feet to marvel at new sights of birds, including mockingbirds, tropical kingbirds, swallows, several types of tyrant birds, whilst in the marshes around, hundreds of wader birds stand or look for food on this splendid and sunny morning. Plovers, sandpipers, yellowlegs, stilts, phalaropes, whimbrels and hundreds of spectacular Jacanas with their rusty-red and brownish plumage and light-yellow wings constantly displayed are just samplers of the extraordinary variety of avian life which occurs here.  According to Maria, more than 150 species of birds have been recorded.
The next to capture my attention and fascination are dozens of the amazingly colorful (and otherwise rare and elusive, yet here unafraid), purple gallinules with their azure blue-purple and contrasting dark green colors surprisingly blending in with the water vegetation.  Kingfisher birds, several types of egrets and ibis birds, striated and great blue herons and even the stunning Cocoi herons show up in large numbers as we reach a small Observation wooden tower from where the marvelous immensity of the wetlands is almost fully visible.  Among the raptors, we have seen several types of kites, hawks and falcons. However the most abundant are the snail kites, which we can observe everywhere, along with the evidence of their feeding habits: hundreds of snail shells dispersed all over the trail and surrounding areas.
The experience is unique and truly fantastic.  As Marcelo incessantly clicks his camera away and I keep my binoculars practically attached to my eyes, Maria and Patricio discuss with us the needs to conserve this bird watching paradise, which I euphorically tag as “an ornithological orgy”…. Such is the magnitude of what we have seen in little more than one hour.  And the story hasn’t come to an end yet.  But, we will tell you about the rest of the day on the next issue, not to be missed………

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A unique cultural experience on Ecuador´s Amazon Region, Part Two

December 10, 2011

A brilliantly sunny morning is the perfect setting for our overland trip from the Limoncocha Biological Reserve to the borders of the Cuyabeno Fauna Reserve.  With my Secoya host and guide, Wilmer, skillfully driving the 4-wheel drive vehicle, we ride with a south to north sustained course, on a secondary road, through patches of thick rainforest, with its dense vegetation and tall trees.  Soon we find ourselves traversing one of the hubs of Ecuador’s petroleum fields; a sharp contrast between pristine nature and one of modern-day’s premiere commodities: petroleum. The issue inevitably triggers conversation about the advantages and disadvantages of this richness, versus the conservation of nature for the long-term future.
We reach the small and typical Amazonian frontier town of Tarapoa.  It is possibly near 90 degrees Farenheit and the air is very humid.  However, it is not unpleasant at all. We stop for a light lunch at a small restaurant in town, where we eat the only available platter on the menu: a traditional chicken stew with rice and salad.  We restart our journey and now we turn east. From a ridge along the road we can see the vastness of the Cuyabeno Reserve, one of Ecuador’s protected natural areas. As we travel, Wilmer tells me fascinating stories about the origins, culture and way of life of his ethnic nationality: the Secoya people. Actually, Secoya translates into “people of multiple colors”… a poetic name, which also refers to their typical outfits and ceremonial body and face-painting.
The small dirt road reaches a dead end at the shores of the large Aguarico River.  We park our vehicle under the shade of some trees and now we need to cross to the opposite shore. In spite of Wilmer’s loud whistling, there is no response, only a few children play in the water, with total disregard of our presence.  Resourceful by nature, Wilmer spots a tiny dugout canoe, parked along the north shore’s muddy bank.  He rushes to a nearby hut, to ask for an ore and we “borrow” the small dugout for a little more than one hour.  The crossing of the strong Aguarico River, paddling on such a minuscule canoe, that barely holds Wilmer and my weight, is already a fun adventure. We reach the south bank, tie securely the canoe for our return and make our way inland to visit the small Secoya community of San Pablo de los Secoyas. Rodrigo, a young community leader and Nancy, a local guide, greet us and we follow them to the village’s Interpretation Center, a solid building with a complete display telling the story, details and way of life of the Secoya nationality.  Wilmer takes over and provides me with a magisterial class about the extraordinary culture of his nation, of which he is greatly proud. They also show me their fresh-water fish cultivation project, an interesting initiative to boost their economy and provide an added attraction for tourism.
Back across the Aguarico River on the tiny dugout canoe, we take again our car for an additional twenty minute ride, until we reach the small but busy river port of “Centro Union”. We park the vehicle securely here and we board a large motorized dugout canoe, which will take us on a thirty minute long ride, downstream, on the Agurarico River, towards a new Secoya community: Seocya-Remolino.  This is Wilmer’s home and we disembark at his father’s home, up on a scenic ridge along the southern shore of the river…. Don Cesar, the patriarch, is a charming and smiling man, on his late fifties, who speaks good Spanish and is a superb host.  As is typical of this ethnic group, women take a bit of a backstage.  After sipping a refreshing tangerine juice, Wilmer, his father and family take me to their well organized “Etno-Botanic” Garden, where they orderly plant medicinal plants from the rainforest. The sunset hour approaches and, sitting on a large log, I watch how bright oropendolas, yellow-rumped cacique birds and “arasari” tucanets head for their home on a huge kapok tree, right by the Piaguaje family’s house.  During hours, a golden-colored duck is being braised and smoked for dinner at one edge of the large, traditional and perfectly knit, thatch-roofed hut. The Aguarico River and the dense jungle provide a truly awesome backdrop to an even more fascinating chat with Don Cesar, Wilmer and Bartolo, the commune’s president who has joined us;  all telling fantastic stories about their ancestral culture. At dinner time, the patriarch father now wears the traditional Secoya dress, a sky-blue, knee-length robe with yellow edges around the neck and arms.  Under the dim light of a small lamp and a few candles, conversation flows as we devour the delicious meal and all I feel in my mind and throughout my body and spirit is a pleasant sensation of pure peace and magic……….

T  H  E    E  N  D    O  F    P  A  R  T    T  W  O

A unique cultural experience on Ecuador’s Amazon region, Part one

December 6, 2011

An intense equatorial light filters through the wood and bamboo-lined windows of the small jungle lodge along the shores of Lake Limoncocha, meaning “Lake of Lemons”; on Ecuador’s north-central Amazon region. I pleasantly wake up to a concert of bird songs and sounds, which fill the air at sunrise….  The lodge was built and is entirely ran by the local Kichwa community, within an initiative to enhance a new tourism modality, where the local communities fully run their own tourism enterprises, while upgrading the cultural experiences of the travelers as an ideal complement to the already stunning and richly varied natural environments of the magnificent rainforest.
The cabins are small but clean and mosquito nettings are provided, just in case. Shower and bathroom facilities are communal.  As I make my way to the shower, I meet a Spanish family from Madrid, father, mother and two children, with whom I had shared a pleasant conversation over diner, the previous evening. They are feeling as cheerful as I am, as we all march towards the showers’ area.  Looking at the large and imposing Lake, one of Ecuador’s Natural Protected Areas, the Biological Reserve of Limoncocha, under the early morning light, is a rewarding experience by itself.  Meanwhile, the forest, with its myriad trees, luxuriant vegetation and millions of winged or non-winged creatures teems with life and color. A real good start for a day filled with unique natural and cultural experiences.
Next is breakfast, graciously served by the Kichwa women, who have prepared for us freshly squeezed grapefruit juice; delicious green plantain patties, lemongrass tea from the lodge’s own garden and a bowl of chopped fruits, including papaya and bananas, all from the area. As I praise the ladies for their good cooking, they tell me, with their natural innocence and a charming touch of shyness, that they feel a bit “gastronomically weak” in terms of preparing deserts and they ask if some specialized training could be found for them.  I promise to help them on this endeavor.
The luminosity increases as the morning progresses, on another sunny day in the mighty Amazon Rainforest, right at the Equator.  The intense blue sky makes a great contrast with the dozens of green color tones of the jungle’s vegetation.  We set off on a hike along a nature trail, to observe dozens of species of birds; hundreds of leaf-cutter ants, busily carrying small leaves on endless and perfectly organized lines.   Two graceful “wooley” monkeys show up and perform a live show of their funny antics, apparently just to amuse themselves and, who knows if willingly or not, amuse us too…. Guillermo is our native Kichwa guide and he explains with passion the intricate yet fascinating networking of the rainforest inhabitants and their surrounding elements: air, sun, rain, earth, soil, wind, fire….. He also tells us about the millenary history of his ancestors and the rich cultural elements which they boast…
The loop trail brings us back to the lodge where I part from the Spanish family, as they are headed in a different direction than I.  Taking one last look at the sparkling blue Limoncocha  Lagoon and checking out for some colorful tanagers, busily flying among the dense vegetation, I say goodbye to the staff and I meet my new guide and host, Wilmer, a member of the Secoya nationality, one of Ecuador’s seventeen unique and fascinating ethnic groups, who will take me on a private visit to the Secoyas’s territory, along the shores of the Aguarico River, bordering the Cuayabeno Fauna Reserve, one more fantastic experience yet to be lived…. But, I will tell you about the continuation of this voyage, on the next issue….. Not to be missed…….

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